Notre Dame: College Football On-Campus Travelogue

If we were charged with power ranking “dream destinations” in college football, it would be hard to deny Notre Dame a spot in the top five.

Yes, the Irish seem to have as many haters as they do lovers, but at the end of the day there is at least a large shovel full of truth in Notre Dame’s designation as one of the fonts of history and tradition for our college gridiron game.

While it’s each individual fan’s prerogative to dislike the South Benders, it would be near impossible for most lovers of the greatest game to pass up on an opportunity to walk where names like “Rockne,” “Lujack,” “Hornung” and “Brown” hang deliciously in the air.

The following slideshow serves as a guiding light, nay a beacon, to the weary college football traveler who finds themselves in South Bend, Indiana on a fall game day or on any other date in the calendar year.

It’s a travelogue that’s part history tour, part bar guide, part campus directory, part accommodation station and 100 percent college football approved.

Stop No. 1: Chicago, Illinois

Unless you are within driving distance of northern Indiana, the closest major air service to Notre Dame is found westward, around the tip of Lake Michigan in Chicago.

South Bend is approximately a two hour drive from both of Chicago’s airports, O’Hare and Midway.

Though Chicago is certainly a destination all on its own, if you have a couple of hours or days to burn in the Windy City, the following is a decidedly truncated list of “things to do” recommendations.

Gino’s East of Chicago: With a total of 11 locations (six within Chicago) here’s the place to sample some authentic deep-dish pizza. The original restaurant opened in 1966 on Michigan and Superior downtown and is a culinary landmark.

Navy Pier: Open since 1995, this Lake Michigan-side dock has got it all: Restaurants, shopping, museums, rides, cruises and entertainment attractions.  Its 50 acres of fun.

Shedd Aquarium:  One of the biggest aquariums in the world, Shedd has been open since 1930 and is conveniently located near the Adler Planetarium and the Field Museum of Natural History.  Though it seems like every city serves up an aquarium, the Shedd is hands down one of the best marine experiences in the world.

Soldier Field: Among the most historic football locations in our great nation, Soldier Field is home to the Chicago Bears and has been open for business since 1924.  But, did you know that the Bears didn’t start playing at Soldier Field until 1971?  The first football game actually played at the football venue was, ironically, a Notre Dame vs. Northwestern contest on November 22, 1924. The Irish won 13-6.  Soldier Field offers tours Monday-Friday from 9 a.m to 5 p.m.

Wrigley Field: Erected in 1914, Wrigley is hosting its 99^th year of Major League Baseball in 2012, second only to Boston’s Fenway Park which opened its doors in 1912.  Steeped in history, Wrigley (which was also the home of the Chicago Bears for many years) offers up a wide array of tours on both game days and non-game days.

Stop No. 2: CJ’s Pub

If you make the two hour drive from Chi-town and roll into South Bend around lunch time give CJ’s Pub, located downtown at Wayne Street and South Michigan, a try. 

Though it’s not your typical restaurant, (remember, it’s called a “pub”) it’s a great local, non-chain place to grab a beer and a top-tier burger.

Self dubbed the “Super Pub Burger”, CJ’s serves up an awe-inspiring variety of options to dress up their “over half pound” patty-dominated beefy sandwich.

If you are adventurous, try the “Tom Gorman Ultra Works Burger,” the “Lone Star”, the “Boss” or even the “Four Horsemen Hockey” version.

Stop No. 3: Park on the Notre Dame Campus

If it’s game day in South Bend, you’ll want to show up on campus plenty early, in fact, arriving the night before means you can hit a pep rally at the Joyce Center, which is located adjacent to Notre Dame Stadium.

For game day parking, your best bet is going to be the Burke North and South lots located near the University Golf Course off Indiana 933/Business 31.  The bigger of the two lots, Burke South, is accessible from Angela Boulevard on the south edge of the campus.

The Burke lots are closer to the stadium (about 25 minutes via foot), and the action, but another good option is the White North lot located off Juniper Road across from the Warren Golf Course at the far north west corner of campus (offering a 45 minute hike to the stadium area).

Stop No. 4: Tailgating on Campus

Regardless of where you park, if it’s game day you’ll see tailgating all over the Notre Dame campus.

But, don’t expect a drunken fest in South Bend.

The Irish do celebrate and they do love their football team, but instead of expecting to see hurling patrons, crying co-eds with smeared mascara and beer bongs, think more along the lines of floral centerpieces, cornhole and friendly fare.

And this is one of the many reasons that a visit to South Bend is unique.

Stop No. 5: The Basilica of the Sacred Heart

Located a 10-minute walk northwest of Notre Dame Stadium, the Basilica of the Sacred Heart is worth seeing even if the Irish aren’t playing.

As beautiful as it is from the outside, the Basilica is drop-dead gorgeous inside featuring over 40 stained glass windows and a stunning neo-gothic design that dates back to 1870.

The Basilica is the parish church (or mother church) for the Catholic-based Congregation of the Holy Cross in the USA, a flock that dates back to its 1837 foundations in France.

What’s special about the Basilica on a Notre Dame football game day is that it serves as the launch pad for the traditional team walk to the stadium that begins approximately 45 minutes before kickoff.

The Irish players, decked out in suits and ties, advance from the Basilica to the stadium in a march that is dramatically signaled by the tolling of the Basilica’s 218-foot tall bell tower.

This is where it all begins.

Stop No. 6: Notre Dame Stadium

Whether it’s a football game day in South Bend or not (if not the parking will be far less complicated), the first place for the football enthusiast to visit is the Notre Dame Stadium area which is located smack dab in the middle of campus.

If it is game day, why not follow the team to the stadium from the Basilica and then, if you are lucky enough to be one of the 80,000-plus people with a golden ticket, enter the gates of football fantasy land.

Notre Dame Stadium opened in 1930 and is dubbed the “House that Rockne Built”, and not just because the infamous coach led the team to a 10-0 record and a national championship during its inaugural season in the new edifice.

No, Rockne actually resigned from his post as head coach in protest of the fact that university wouldn’t take football profits and build a new stadium, an action that obviously spurred the construction of present day Notre Dame Stadium and made it literally the house that he “built.”

Ironically, Rockne’s first season in the new stadium was also his last, as he died in a plane crash months before he had an opportunity to defend the Irish’s title during the 1931 season.

The last game Rockne ever coached in Notre Dame Stadium (and only his fourth ever) was a November 15, 1930 contest in which the Irish whipped Penn 60-20.

Stop No. 7: Hesburgh Library

Whether you just want to take a spellbinding look at the mural-festooned edifice known as “Touchdown Jesus” from the inside of the stadium, or you want to make a more personal visit, the Hesburgh Library is not to be missed regardless of when you visit Notre Dame.

The library is approximately a 10-minute walk due north from the stadium, and the famous mural was first unveiled in 1964 when the Irish went 9-1 and won a national title under coach Ara Parseghian.

The work of art that has become synonymous with Irish football is officially titled “The Word of Life” and was created by Millard Sheets (1907-89), who also has works featured in the Smithsonian American Art Museum in Washington, D.C.

Stop No. 8: Washington Hall

Located about 15 minutes via foot due west of the Hesburgh Library, Washington Hall delicately combines football lore with a ghost story that is still under investigation.

The back steps of Washington Hall (built in 1881 as the university’s academic theatre) was were Irish player George Gipp, who was purportedly locked out of his own dormitory due to arriving after curfew, slept late one December night in 1920.

Gipp’s all-nighter resulted in pneumonia that sadly led to his early demise and the legend of his deathbed plea to coach Knute Rockne to “win one for the Gipper.”

Notre Dame went 9-0 in 1920 and Gipp was named an All-American before his death, but the Irish were overlooked in terms of a national championship in favor of Cal who also went 9-0 and beat Ohio State 28-0 in the Rose Bowl.

Washington Hall has since been plagued with paranormal reports, including ghost sightings and a very boisterous brass horn being played.  The “hauntings” were made further famous by a feature on a 2004 edition of the Travel Channel’s “Haunted Campuses” program.

Stop No. 9: The Main Building (Golden Dome)

Other than “Touchdown Jesus”, the other most recognizable edifice on campus (and must see) is Notre Dame’s Main Building.

Located less than a five-minute walk northwest of Washington Hall, the Main Building is presently utilized for administrative purposes, but was once a hub of university activity that included classrooms, a dormitory and a dining hall.

The present building dates back to 1879, (it replaced a previous structure that had burned down) and the iconic golden dome was added in 1882.

The most recent “re-gilding” of the dome occurred in 2005 when the Irish went 9-3 under then coach Charlie Weis. 

Inside the building look for some stunning Luigi Gregori (1882-84) murals that celebrate Christopher Columbus’ “discovery” of the “New World.”

Stop No. 10: The Grotto of Our Lady of Lourdes

Situated a short five-minute walk west from the Main Building, Notre Dame’s Grotto is a miniature version of the shrine to Our Lady in Lourdes, France.

The Grotto dates back to 1896 (when the Irish went 4-3 under then coach Frank Hering), and was constructed from boulders from the Indiana countryside. It also features a smaller rock from the original shrine in the southwest of France

The Grotto is wholly unique to Notre Dame and is an important part of Irish football and campus tradition.

Stop No. 11: The College Football Hall of Fame

Leaving the Notre Dame campus, you’ll need to travel south and then west across the St. Joseph’s river to reach the College Football Hall of Fame on South St. Joseph’s Street.

It’s only about a 10-minute drive from campus to the Hall of Fame, a short journey well worth your while if you are even a marginal college football zealot.

The 58,000-square-foot football Hall of Fame has been open for business since 2005. And besides being the font of history for the college game, it honors via enshrinement approximately 1000 coaches, athletes and administrators who have contributed to our nation's greatest team sport.

Admission is about $15.00 and is worth every penny.

Stop No. 12: The Studebaker National Museum

Easily the best non-football attraction in South Bend, the Studebaker National Museum would be worth visiting regardless of where it was located.

Situated literally just five minutes down the road (west on Washington, south on MLK) from the College Football Hall of Fame, the Studebaker is 50,000 square feet of transportation history.

Whether it's local history, Studebaker automobiles or earlier modes of transportation (i.e. real live historical wagons and buggies) that tickle your fancy, this is the place.

The Studebaker family, and therefore Studebaker wagon and then car factories, were staples in South Bend from the middle of the 1800’s until 1966 when the brand became defunct.

Admission is very reasonably priced (under $10 per head) and is a good value, especially given how well laid out and maintained the museum is.

Stop No. 13: Tippecanoe Place

Whether you’ve just finished up at the stadium, visited the Studebaker museum or have simply spent a non-football day in South Bend, you can grab a unique and tasty meal at Tippecanoe Place.

Set in the original Studebaker mansion, located less than one minute’s drive from the Studebaker Museum back down Washington towards the College Football Hall of Fame, the Tippecanoe is one of the top-rated restaurants in the area and offers up everything from rack of lamb to roasted Indiana duckling.

Another option for visiting the Tippecanoe is Sunday morning when a generous brunch is offered from 10 a.m. until 2 p.m.

Stop No. 14: The Linebacker Lounge

Now it’s time to grab some drinks to celebrate a great day in your own personal football history.

Though both C.J.’s Pub and the Fiddler's Hearth, which are both mentioned in this travel extravaganza, are recommended South Bend watering holes; it would be impossible, nay irresponsible, to not dispatch weary travelers to the Linebacker Lounge (or Inn) for a few pints.

A college dive bar in every sense of the word (i.e. the toilets are supposed to look like that) the 50-year-old “Backer” isn’t fancy but it is literally just steps from Notre Dame Stadium on the outskirts of the southeast side of campus on South Bend Avenue.

And as a plus, the “Backer’s” website claims that it is “now open on Election Day.”

Thank goodness.

Stop No. 15: The Cushing Manor Inn

If you’re planning a visit to Notre Dame during a football weekend, you’d be well advised to make your accommodation reservations a good 12 months in advance, if not you’ll easily find approximately 30 chain and locally owned hotel/motels ready to welcome you as a guest.

If you desire something more unique while still upholding a lofty quality standard, check out the Cushing Manor Inn on West Washington, which is the only Triple-A Four-Diamond-Award Winning Inn in either Indiana or Illinois.

Located just a ten-minute drive from campus and in the neighborhood of the College Football Hall of Fame, Tippecanoe Place and the Studebaker Museum, the Cushing is South Bend’s oldest bed and breakfast, dating all the way back to 1872.

The Cushing is a delightful French Victorian mansion in a historic setting, but with all the modern conveniences you would expect from a four-diamond property.

The only drawback with this specific venue is that only eight rooms are available for rent, meaning you had better jump on the bandwagon quickly if you want to make a reservation.

Stop No. 16: The Fiddler's Hearth

What better way to end your visit to Notre Dame than to sop up some grease with a traditional Irish breakfast?

Yes, before you make tracks back to Chicago or wherever you’re headed next, why not fill up your tank with some morning food from afar?

The Fiddler’s Hearth Public House on 127 North Main is a great place to eat or drink no matter what time of the day—offering a truly excellent menu with everything from delicious fish and chips to shepherd’s pie and white chocolate bread pudding.

But, what’s especially great about this place is the Irish breakfast is served from when the joint opens at 11 a.m. until 5 p.m. (no reason to get up early friend, this thing runs all day).

Here’s the place to get some black pudding, Irish rasher bacon, Scottish sausage, grilled mushrooms, beans and a broiled tomato to compliment your eggs.

Yum.